Seghesio has been producing attractive, high quality Zinfandels that remain realistically priced. The 1997 Zinfandel Old Vine, with 14.2% alcohol, is not a huge wine by modern day standards. Its saturated ruby/purple color is followed by superb aromas of black raspberries, minerals, and flowers. There is gorgeously integrated acidity and alcohol, a nice structured yet fruit-driven mid-palate, and a succulent, concentrated finish. It should drink well for 7-8 years. Tel. (707) 433-3579

Extract is the name of the game, and it’s huge: plummy, berryish, licorice and spice. Dry, tannic and heady, with 14.4% alcohol. Some toasty oak adds seasoning. Not for the faint-hearted.——S.H.(2/1/2000)—— 89