Harvested November 11 – actually relatively early for this exceptionally high-elevation site – the 2006 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Toni Bodenstein displays amazing richness and sheer density. Scents and flavors of tropical fruits, caramelized peach and yellow plum, malt, and honey predominating in another voluminous, ester-rich display of ripeness typical for this vintage. Bitter-sweet, long, and powerful in finish, it misses the core of juicy fresh fruit or the mineral dimension of the Achleiten. Still, I would not hesitate to follow this for 5-7 years, re-assessing its further potential along the way. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

This is a cool, poised, fresh wine with deliciously pure, green fruit flavors. There are citrus flavors and plenty of acidity, but the final taste is soft and rich.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 93