The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a single-vineyard wine, very fine but from a good, instead of an excellent, vintage. The nose, though powerful, is more mineral and herbaceous, and though there are size and concentration to spare on the palate, the quality of the extraction and tannins is not at the level of the outstanding vintage which followed. But the weight and grip on the finish are impressive. Drink: 2006-2017. Importer: Vinifera, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907