Vincenzo Abbruzzese has turned out a magnificent wine in his 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. Oddly, the wine has a much more subdued color than last year’s opaque Brunello. Richly sumptuous and elegant, it reveals a compelling array of sweet dark cherries, minerals, tar, underbrush, smoke and licorice with superb concentration. It is remarkably vivid and detailed for such a big wine. Ideally a few years of cellaring are warranted but those lucky enough to own this wine will have a hard time exercising such patience. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907