The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano continues to develop very positively. This huge, concentrated Madonna del Piano dazzles for the richness of its fruit and the delineation of its aromas. The clean, vibrant finish suggests many years of cellaring potential. The Valdicava Brunellos are often misunderstood when young because they possess so much richness, but with time in bottle the wines turn more delicate and complete. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Vincenzo Abbruzzese is one of the most outspoken, passionate growers in Montalcino. His beautifully tended vineyards yield some of the richest wines in the region; and that’s where most of the focus is – on the vineyards. The winery itself is unremarkable and is equipped with just the bare essentials. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral oak; what comes through is Abbruzzese’s commitment to low yields, sustainable farming and non-interventionalist winemaking. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2008 Rosso in bottle, but several samples tasted from tank and cask seemed quite promising. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907