The 2007 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso I Progni is perhaps a touch simpler and less generous than the 2008, but it, too, offers lovely balance in an understated style. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Le Salette this year. This is a fabulous collection that deserves serious attention. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

There’s a modern twist to this traditional wine of northern Italy that comes forward aromatically as spice, vanilla, leather and loads of black fruit. It shows fine texture and density and would make a good match to oven-roasted pasta. ——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 90