Coming from a single plot of 80-year-old vines and a blend of 100% tank-aged Grenache, the 2003 Croix de Bois is a ripe, exuberant, yet elegant Chateauneuf du Pape that oozes southern Rhone flair. While from a decidedly hot vintage, it shows nothing except pure, textbook Grenache aromas and flavors. Starting out tight and slightly reserved, it comes together with air and possesses an almost Rayas-like transparency, with knockout kirsch liqueur, sappy herbs, flowers, seaweed and licorice qualities all emerging from the glass. Still lively and energetic, with a core of sweet fruit, no hard edges and a silky, seamless texture, it is a beautiful, full-bodied 2003 that is at full maturity and drinking brilliantly. While I see no reason to hold off, it will continue to evolve gracefully for upwards of another decade.

Reminiscent of a liqueur of herbes de Provence intermixed with notes of saddle leather and licorice, the dark ruby/plum/purple-tinged 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois reeks of herbs, pepper, and spice box. Smelling and tasting this wine is like walking through an open air Provencal market. It is beautifully fragrant, rich, full-bodied, heady, and long. Drink it over the next 15+ years.