Chapoutier’s 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois is gorgeous, and while I’ve always preferred the Barbe Rac to this cuvee, I think the quality between the two is neck and neck. A blend of 100% Grenache that was vinified and aged all in concrete, this naked, raw expression of the variety gives up classic jammy dark fruits, toasted bread, garrigue, red licorice and sweet spice on the nose. Silky, refined and elegant, yet with full-bodied richness and tons of character, it’s a knockout bottle of Grenache to drink anytime over the coming 5-7 years.

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois is brilliant. Notes of licorice, seaweed, cedar, and copious black currant and sweet cherry notes are present in the provocative aromatics. Ripe, full-bodied, and dense, with moderately high tannin, terrific concentration, and a deep ruby color, this is a brilliant wine that tips the scales at 16.5% natural alcohol, whereas the 2006 was at 15.3%. Look for the 2005 to hit its peak in 2-3 years and last for 15 or more years. The great terroiriste and biodynamic farmer of the northern Rhone, Michel Chapoutier, continues to display impressive talent for turning out strong wines from the southern Rhone even though his undeniably strengths are his single-vineyard wines from the north.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900