The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois (16.5% alcohol) reveals a dense plum color followed by a big nose of roasted herbs, incense, fruitcake, licorice, and kirsch liqueur. Dense and full-bodied with good acidity, this rich, heady wine can be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

More forward and textured, with a hedonistic slant, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois (also 100% Grenache) gives up earthy, meaty notes of tobacco leaf, olive, rare steak and sweet black fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and voluptuously textured, it is drinking at maturity, yet should hold nicely for another 5-7 years. Chapoutier’s single vineyard efforts are always some of the most impressive in a vintage, and 2004 is no exception.