The Prager 2007 Riesling Federspiel Steinriegel is one of those Rieslings from this vintage that seem to be reverting to its Muscat family roots, with pungent herbs and citrus zest in a pungent nose and bracing, tart palate. The finish here – aside from its pungency and citric sass – seems poised between stony and metallic. It won’t make you forget last year’s – more like long for it – and I would plan to utilize this with appropriately fresh, high acid dishes over the coming 18-24 months. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700