Tasted side by side with the 1990, it is interesting how much more tannic the 1989 seems to be. Colored a dark plum with some lightening at the edge, the nose shows notes of compost, melted licorice, oak, and black cherry fruit. The overt oakiness noticeable in its youth has become far more subtle and less aggressive. In the mouth the wine starts off large-scaled, fleshy, and fat, but then some relatively astringent tannins kick in in the finish. This has been a perplexing wine to follow, since it was seemingly softer and more opulent in its youth and now seems to be taking on a more structured, tannic personality as the baby fat falls away. In any event, the wine seems to be close to full maturity, but capable of lasting for another decade. Anticipated maturity: Now-2013. Last tasted, 11/01.