If the 2004 pulls in a Sauvignon direction, Lenz’s 2003 Gewurztaminer exhibits a rather Pinot Gris-like aroma of peaches and wood smoke along with subtle rose petal and lychee notes. The palate impression here is fuller and creamier than in the 2004 and the savory finish meatier and spicier. The Lenz Chardonnay style, incidentally, eschews the cheap tricks of tropical fruit and toasted oak for fresh pit fruit and citrus with subtle oak and rich lees integration. One component I tasted of their 2005 Chardonnay – the wine had not yet been assembled – displayed positively Chassagne-like jellied red fruit aromas. Another strong specialization of Fry’s is methode champenoise. “I used to make red Pinot Noir in good years and it was mediocre. In bad years, I’d make bubbly – and it was wonderful,” he says by way of explanation. Tel. (631) 364-8403