The Lenz 2004 Gewurztraminer displays so much peppermint and cress in the nose and such an exuberant juiciness of fruit acidity on the palate that I first thought “Sauvignon Blanc.” Celery seed and lychee aromas more typical of this variety as well as a hint of textural creaminess emerge as the wine takes on air, along with a tactile brown spice element and a salty note in the surprisingly juicy finish. At least for his microclimate, Fry asserts, “By the time Gewurz is ready to pick, the acid is gone, the pH is four, it’s falling apart,” and consequently he adds acid. I must say that in this instance it has been adeptly done. Lenz opines that the more typical rose petal and spice of this variety will emerge after a few more months in bottle. Tel. (631) 364-8403