Quintarelli’s 1997 Amarone is seductive from the first aromas that float from the glass. It offers a myriad of dried cherries, plums, tea leaves, earthiness, spices, smoke and herbs in a deceptively medium-bodied style bursting with flavor. Constantly changing in the glass, this is a sensual wine of contrasts; it is sweet yet dry, rustic yet incredibly elegant, all at the same time. Unfortunately I have encountered a significant amount of bottle variation with this wine, most recently from two bottles purchased at the same shop. Bottle variation is always frustrating but at roughly $350 a pop this degree of inconsistency is especially painful. A bottle tasted several months ago showed levels of volatile acidity that are high even for this producer, and which obscured everything else in the wine. This bottle, though, tasted in August of 2007, was magical. The phrase caveat emptor has never been more appropriate. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.
One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased.
Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999
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