The 1998 Amarone reveals a gorgeous nose along with ripe red cherries, cough syrup, spices and minerals on a medium-bodied frame. Made in a sweet, inviting style, it offers excellent length as well as purity in a very classic style. It also appears to have enough fruit to compensate for the volatile acidity which is present. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The nose is subtle, yet complex and enticing, offering spicy dried fruit, fresh cola leaves, tobacco, dried flowers and red brick aromas. Full-bodied, with a tight bead of spicy currant that comes to the fore and characterizes the long finish. More linear than the 1997, but well-balanced. Less concentrated and sweet than in the past. Drink now. 850 cases made. — JC