The 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a thing of beauty. This mid-weight, delicate red offers up a gorgeous array of crushed flowers, red berries and sweet spices in an ethereal style. As it sits in the glass the wine acquires concentration and richness. The wine possesses the grace of a ballerina, phenomenal balance and impeccable pedigree. In this vintage the Amarone shows suggestions of slightly newer barrels, and that may be why this is the first non-Riserva Amarone I can recall in at least a few years that doesn’t show the excess volatile acidity that has marred some previous wines. To be sure, this is a super-traditional, cask-aged Amarone, and it may not appeal to all palates, but readers in search of fine old-school Amarone won’t find a better wine among this year’s new releases. In time this score may very well go up...quite a bit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.

The 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a thing of beauty. This mid-weight, delicate red offers up a gorgeous array of crushed flowers, red berries and sweet spices in an ethereal style. As it sits in the glass the wine acquires concentration and richness. The wine possesses the grace of a ballerina, phenomenal balance and impeccable pedigree. In this vintage the Amarone shows suggestions of slightly newer barrels, and that may be why this is the first non-Riserva Amarone I can recall in at least a few years that doesn’t show the excess volatile acidity that has marred some previous wines. To be sure, this is a super-traditional, cask-aged Amarone, and it may not appeal to all palates, but readers in search of fine old-school Amarone won’t find a better wine among this year’s new releases. In time this score may very well go up...quite a bit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. It’s always a bit of a challenge to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli as he doesn’t follow a predictable schedule; the wines are simply released when he feels they are ready. Originally the 2000 Alzero was scheduled to be released this fall, but work in the vineyards pushed back the timetable a few months and I wasn’t able to taste the wine in time for this article. I have had the pleasure and privilege of drinking a number of Quintarelli’s older, benchmark wines over the last few months, and at their best, they have no peers. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Offers beautiful aromas of ripe plum and berries, with citrus peel and floral notes. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and plenty of fruit that turns to black licorice and cherry. Subtle yet flavorful. Complex. Drink now. 750 cases made. — JS