Compared to the lively 1999, the 1997 Brunello di Montalcino starts off tired and weary with advanced tertiary aromas of aged meat or beef jerky. It does get a second wind a few minutes later as it airs in the glass. Only then do delicate notes of bay leaf and chopped herb begin to rise up above the rest. The results are pretty enough right now but not convincing for the long haul. Drink: 2014-2016.