The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Campogiovanni is one the bigger, bolder wines of the year. The fruit shows impressive depth and richness, but it is the French oak that ultimately dominates the flavor and textural profile. Dark cherries, new leather, black olives and toasted French oak follow through on the building, intense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094

Licorice, sweet spices, toast, smoke and sanguine aromas and flavors envelop a kernel of raspberry in this intense, extroverted red, which is complex, focused and structured, with an expansive finish. There's fine potential, but needs time. Best from 2014 through 2027. 7,000 cases made. -BS

Campogiovanni is a rich, inky expression of Sangiovese Grosso with beautiful personality and length. The mouthfeel is still young and raw but the aromas already show deep evolution and harmony. You’ll recognize tones of red cherry, root beer, mesquite and Indian spice. ——M.L.(4/1/2011)—— 92