The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is a delightful surprise. I enjoyed everything about the wine from its pretty garnet darkness to the budding tertiary aromas of old spice and smoked meat that are present but not overwhelming. The best part of the bouquet, however, are the dried rose and balsam herb aromas that give the wine a terrific sense of vertical lift. With dried mint, licorice and root beer, there’s as excellent level of aromatic action that is all marching in high gear. There’s even a playful touch of dried porcini mushroom that adds to the overall complexity. The palate is extremely fine and polished. The wine is showing beautifully right now and can still go forward. Decanting time can be up to three hours prior. Drink: 2014-2028.

I was frankly expecting a bit more from Campogiovanni, a well located estate (to the south of Talenti) with plenty of capital behind it (it belongs to the giant RAS insurance company). The color is a fresh and vivid garnet-ruby, but the peppery and herbaceous nose, if powerful and penetrating, is a bit acerbic and the flavors, while intense, need more meat and roundness. I have no desire to kick off a war between insurers, but perhaps San Felice, the Chianti Classico producer who owns these vineyards, might want to taste the wines of La Poderina, property of the rival SAI insurance company and in a whole different league. Drink: 2005-2014.Importers: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094, and Opici Wines, Glen Rock, NY; tel. (201) 689-1200

Pretty wine with lovely blackberry, chocolate and light spice aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. This is always outstanding. Best after 2004. 6,600 cases made. -JS

Smells great, with toasty, burnt edges to the nose that really work. The palate offers plenty of fresh, happy fruit spread across a broad canvas. It’s not boisterous or loud, but it is a high-quality red that’s balanced, lengthy and just mildly oaky and contemporary. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 91