Aromas of wheat toast, orange rind and green apple mingle with suggestions of oyster shell and vanilla pod in an incipiently complex bouquet, introducing Moreau's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a full-bodied, supple and satiny wine that's notably concentrated—reflecting its meager yield of nine hectoliters per hectare—with ripe acids, an elegantly muscular profile and a long, lingering finish. It was matured entirely in wood.