Aromas of wheat toast, orange rind and green apple mingle with suggestions of oyster shell and vanilla pod in an incipiently complex bouquet, introducing Moreau's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a full-bodied, supple and satiny wine that's notably concentrated—reflecting its meager yield of nine hectoliters per hectare—with ripe acids, an elegantly muscular profile and a long, lingering finish. It was matured entirely in wood.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir was showing well, exhibiting attractive aromas of mandarin, Meyer lemon and baking spice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with good concentration and delicate structure, underpinned by juicy acids. It's a precocious Vaudésir, but it represents a success in a challenging vintage.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir has a beautiful bouquet, very pure and charming with scents of nectarine, quince, a touch of white chocolate and an underlying mineralité that veers you back to Chablis. The palate is very well balanced with a peachy entry and veins of clementine and quince that lead to a very harmonious finish. This is a lovely Vaudésir that should provide a decade or two of drinking pleasure.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir has a clean, fresh, marine-tinged bouquet, hints of shucked oyster shells filtering through the citrus lemon and limestone aromas. The palate builds on that marine influence and there is a very subtle reduction that lends a smokiness and light spiciness. What makes this wine is how nuanced that reduction is. You barely notice it, but it is there and without denuding the finish of wonderful precision. This is a killer Chablis from the domaine, one of the finest that I have tasted.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir comes from 0.5 hectare and for the first time ever it is aged entirely in used barrel for 10 months before being transferred into tank for another eight months. I severely underscored this last year. It offers superb definition on the nose: citrus lemon, cold-granite scents, reserved but beautifully focused. The palate is clean and precise, hints of lime and orange zest on the entry, a slight chalkiness to the texture and segues into a lively saline finish that lingers long in the mouth. Wow – what a lovely Vaudésir this has blossomed into!