The 1992 Valpolicella boasts a huge, smoky, sweet, gamey, jammy nose. The wine is fabulously-textured, rich, full-bodied, and loaded with extract. Elements of tar, and sweet, chocolatey, cedar-like berry fruit cascade over the palate with an unctuous texture, and an amazing finish. Readers weaned on the ocean of industrial swill that parades under the name of Valpolicella will have their senses shocked by this wine's complexity and intensity. It should continue to drink well for 7-8 years. Readers who follow the Italian wine scene must argue incessantly over who makes the greatest wines of Veneto - Quintarelli or Dal Forno Romano? Both are at the top of their game, producing spectacular wines that are reference points for an area of northeast Italy that is beginning to show signs of awakening from a long period of moribund mediocrity. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200