Sweet, open aromatics lead to hints of dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and minerals as the 2004 Valpolicella Superiore gradually opens in the glass. Today the wine comes across as shut down, but the imposing tannins are also rather fine, suggesting that with time the wine’s inner sweetness will gradually emerge. Readers who want to try their luck with this wine earlier should open the bottle a good eight hours or so prior to drinking it. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. All of these wines from Romano Dal Forno require significant aeration to show the true breadth of this passionate grower’s innovative style. Ideally the wines should be cellared for a minimum of a few years. Readers in search of short-term gratification are advised to open these bottles at least eight to ten hours before serving. This also holds for the Valpolicella, which has become an especially massive, structured wine after Dal Forno started producing it from 100% dried fruit in the 2002 vintage. Dal Forno favors 100% new American oak for his wines, although in recent years he has brought the aging regime down considerably. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Pungent aromas of tarry currant and raisin, with charred oak, follow through to a solid, full-bodied palate, with a round texture. Compact and structured, but needs time to gain complexity and length. Wonderfully soft and generous. Why wait? Not as thick and rich as this estate's Amarone, but very close in quality. Best from 2009 through 2014. 2,610 cases made, 400 cases imported.??–JC??Region: Italy / Valpolicella Select to Add

Thick, black and impenetrable, this is one of the most densely extracted wines you will ever encounter. Despite its extreme size, it maintains a fresh, delicate character throughout thanks to the obvious quality of the fruit. Opulent oak and spice tones might be distracting to Valpolicella purists—but make no mistake: this is an impressive and exciting wine. ——M.L.(10/1/2009)—— 92