Dal Forno's 2002 Valpolicella is a massively endowed effort revealing backward dark fruit, new leather, spices, herbs, roasted coffee beans and toasted oak on an imposing, tannic frame. Made in a super-concentrated style - even by Dal Forno's standards - it will require several years of cellaring for the tannins to soften somewhat, although it is hard to imagine that will ever completely happen. Beginning with the 2002 vintage Dal Forno's Valpolicella is made from 100% dried fruit, whereas in previous vintages the wine had been made only partially with dried fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Romano Dal Forno is a humble, down to earth and extremely passionate person. Just a few minutes with Dal Forno are enough to understand his unwavering, some might say obsessive, pursuit of quality. I have never met a producer with such a maniacal approach to cleanliness in the cellar. Nothing is wasted here. As I tasted the drying grapes after the 2006 harvest one grape fell to the ground, but it was swiftly picked up by Dal Forno. The same aesthetic applies to Dal Forno's work in the vineyards. Dal Forno's newest plot is planted with an extremely dense 12,800 vines per hectare and can only be described as a work of surgical precision. Dal Forno uses roughly 60-70% Corvina, 10-15% Croatina, 10-15% Rondinella and a small amount of Oseleta for the Valpolicella and Amarone. The fruit from the estate's younger vines goes into the Valpolicella, while Amarone is made from vineyards that range from 10 to 30 years of age. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200