Pierre Usseglio's rich, expansive 1996 Chateauneuf du Pape is a charming surprise from this vintage. The dark ruby/garnet color is followed by jammy cherry aromas intermixed with smoked Provencal herbs, licorice, and fruitcake. The wine possesses excellent richness, a cherry/kirsch, peppery, richly fruity character, sweet glycerin, medium to full body, and no hard edges in the lusty, high alcohol finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Impressive for a '96. Full-bodied and yummy, showing a lovely combination of plum, leather, smoke and wet earth aromas. The tannins turn a bit tough, but there's enough fruit here to warrant cellaring until all the pieces come together. Best from 2003 through 2010. 1,250 cases made. -PM