The brilliant 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape should not be overlooked (the 1998 and 2000 are drinking spectacularly well at present). A peppery, leathery, earthy effort with copious quantities of black cherries, this dense, full-bodied 2001 is surprisingly precocious by Usseglio’s standards. Nevertheless, 1-2 years of cellaring is warranted given the size and structure of this big, chewy, 75% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Cinsault, and 5% Syrah blend. It was aged in neutral wood foudres for 15-18 months. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2014. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

This shows some surprisingly mature aromas of cepe, roasted apple wood and mulled spice, along with plenty of lightly stewed plum, fig and black currant fruit. But light briar and juniper notes fill in on the finish and this still has cut and drive, thanks to racy acidity. Lots of character here.—2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now through 2019. 830 cases made. -JM

This is fully into its mature phase, with roasted cedar and apple wood notes now leading the way for tobacco, bitter cherry, blood orange and chestnut flavors. Lightly firm, but still long, offering echoes of dried fruit and date on the finish.—2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now. 5,000 cases made. -JM

This shows a slightly muted bread dough note, with overly firm wood sitting like a veneer, backed by dark plum, prune and fig fruit that struggles to get through. Turns dull on the finish, lacking the vibrancy and definition of the vintage. This cuvee was often rather overwrought in its first several vintages, and time hasn't helped here.—2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. -JM