Even though the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition needs 3-4 years of bottle age, this wine (aged 80% in foudres and 20% in tank and made from a blend of 80% Grenache and the rest Syrah Mourvedre, and Cinsault) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color and a big, sweet nose of tree bark, blackberry, raspberry, and cherry with licorice, damp earth, and a hint of Provencal herbs. The wine is long, full-bodied, but still tannic and closed. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. This estate has been on an outrageous run of successful vintages ever since 1998, no small thanks to the extraordinary efforts of the two brothers, Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. For them 2005 is a very structured, concentrated, powerful vintage that will require significant cellaring. Their 2006s are among the great successes of that vintage, much more charming and up-front than the 2005s, but concentrated.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The classic 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape is a beautiful wine that offers lots of ripe blackberry, toasted spice, olive and garrigue to go with a full, fleshy, Proven?al style on the palate. Made from 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Cinsault and 5% Mourvèdre, it spent 12 months in 80% foudre and 20% barrel. Drink this classic traditional cuvee anytime over the coming 4-6 years.

Formidably dense and structured, with lots of fig paste and currant confiture, layered with espresso, bittersweet cocoa, bramble and hoisin sauce notes. The long, tarry finish really pounds it out authoritatively, with fruit and minerality to burn. Has the power of the previous vintages, but with far better definition. Best from 2009 through 2030. 500 cases made. -JM

Shows the great embedded structure of the vintage, with a strong graphite undertow pushing the layers of blackberry, boysenberry and plum fruit, while additional sweet spice, mocha and bittersweet cocoa notes fill in the background. Packed with fruit and terroir, with a gorgeous mouthfeel. Best from 2008 through 2027. 1,500 cases made. -JM

Taut and reserved for now, with red plum and red currant notes held back by sinewy tannins and a racy minerality. Has solid length, and the flesh should fill out with cellaring. Best from 2008 through 2022. 4,083 cases made. -JM

Round and plump, with black currant and cherry fruit backed by nice tobacco, mineral and tar hints. Gains serious steam on the finish. Drink now through 2007. 816 cases made. -JM

Soft style, with plump melon, butter and peach notes that glide to an easy finish. Drink now. 316 cases made. -JM