The outstanding 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is a full-bodied, peppery wine that oozes the character of Provence with its notes of lavender, herbes de Provence, and sweet black cherries and raspberries. Some licorice, saddle leather, and salty sea breeze notes also make it into the character of this full-bodied, concentrated wine which is silky enough to be drunk now or cellared for 10-12 years. I asked the Usseglios what the most abundant years were over the last decade, and was told they were 2000, followed by 1999, 1998, 2001, 2003, and the smallest crop of all, 2004. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Really silky for an '03, with gorgeous raspberry ganache and cassis fruit that glides atop grilled herb, mineral and tar flavors. Long, authoritative finish shows lots of grip and fruit. A powerful yet racy wine. This really rocks. Drink now through 2025. 1,000 cases made. -JM

Toast dominates right now, though this has alluring spice, black cherry, mocha and plum sauce flavors followed by a long, vibrant, minerally finish. Beautifully sculpted and has lots in reserve, but seems more like power for power's sake, with the toast really dominant. The Cuvee de mon Aieul is the smart buy. Best from 2007 through 2020. 500 cases made. -JM

Ready to go, with outstanding black cherry and currant fruit harnessed by tar, garrigue and mineral notes. Chunky finish opens to reveal its flesh. Textbook vintage and appellation profile. Drink now through 2015. 4,000 cases made. -JM

A traditional style of wine whose relatively light color shows the influence of 75% Grenache and classic vinification. But of its kind, this is a fine wine, with spice, red fruits and juicy flavors. Imported by Wines of France. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 86