The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault, aged in tank (20%) and old wood foudres (80%), reveals classic Provencal typicity with its notes of sweet black cherries, lavender, licorice, roasted herbs, and meat. Soft and lush with a luxurious mouthfeel as well as a stunningly silky texture, this beauty can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years. What a superlative performance from proprietors Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio. This is one of the few estates where the 2006s are so great that they eclipse their brilliant 2005s, and come very close to what was accomplished in 2007. 2007 is another stunning success from brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Usseglio’s 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape is a charming, sexy, pleasure-bent effort that offers copious notes of macerated black cherries, licorice, dried flowers and hints of tobacco leaf. Medium-bodied, fully mature and charming, drink it anytime over the coming 4-5 years.

Silky and forward, with black tea, melted licorice, hoisin sauce, mocha and currant fruit flavors gliding along cocoa-tinged tannins. Additional hints of tobacco, chestnut and grilled beef flitter through the finish, which has solid, latent grip. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases made. -JM

Not shy with its prominent mocha and coffee aromatics, this is dark and rich, with warm fig sauce, bittersweet cocoa, mesquite and crushed blackberry fruit flavors that pump through the muscular finish, where grip clamps down a bit. More power than guile. Best from 2010 through 2028. 120 cases made. -JM

High-toned, with cherry and red currant fruit laced with shiso leaf, mineral, sandalwood and spice notes. The finish is supple but persistent. Drink now through 2020. 3,500 cases made. -JM

Notes of freshly cut citrus fruits mingle with honeysuckle and sweetened butter notes in this friendly, open-knit version. Drink now. 330 cases made. -JM

Juicy and forward, but with nice grip, which carries the plum, currant, game and licorice notes through a fleshy, garrigue-accented finish. Merlot, with Grenache, Syrah and Carignane. Drink now through 2008. -JM