The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition is an exact blend of 82% Grenache, 10% Syrah and the rest Cinsault and Mourvedre. Aged half in cement tanks and the rest in foudres, the wine displays some dusty tannins, which sometimes are an issue with this vintage, but soft berry fruit, roasted herbs and plenty of kirsch, lavender and licorice as well. It is a classic Provencal wine to drink over the next 8-10 years. One of the top estates in Chateauneuf du Pape is that of the two brothers Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio. Their cellars are just north of the village, adjacent to the walls of the ruins of the pope’s palace. They have nearly 60 acres under vine, and make three cuvees of red wines in the top vintages. Their classic or traditional cuvee is made from a blend of mostly Grenache, with some Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvedre. Their mostly unoaked, tank-fermented and -aged Mon Aieul comes from very old vines (about 85 years of age) and tiny yields, while their cuvee Des Deux Freres leans in a slightly more modern direction for Chateauneuf du Pape, with 50% of it now aged in small barrels, 20% in tank, and 30% in 600-liter demi-muids.Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape—a blend of 80% Grenache 10% Syrah and 5% each Cinsault and Mourvèdre aged in a combination of foudres and concrete tanks—is nearing the end of its useful life. It's bricking in hue, with still-attractive aromas of cherries and chocolate, leather and dried spices. Full-bodied, silky and a bit warm on the finish, it should be consumed over the next couple of years.

This has a touch more muscle and drive than many of its peers, with smoldering tobacco and dark espresso notes leading the way for a core of crushed plum, braised fig and steeped black currant notes. The long finish has lots of iron-tinged grip. Best from 2012 through 2023. -JM

This ripe red offers layers of linzer torte, cassis and blackberry fruit piled on top of well-rounded tannins. Loads of spice and licorice ripple through the finish, with an underlying iron hint. Shows the focus and polish of the vintage. Best from 2012 through 2020. 1,000 cases made. -JM

Very youthful, with bright cherry and cassis aromas and flavors, followed by fresh plum, red licorice and spice notes filling out the supple but lengthy finish. Drink now through 2018. 5,000 cases made. -JM

This offers racy blackberry, mulled currant, melted licorice and black tea notes, with a tarry hint helping to extend the finish. Drink now. 200 cases made. -JM

Tasty, showing vanilla, plum and herb notes as well as a soft, fleshy texture. Drink now. 300 cases made. -JM