The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape was made from 70-80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and the rest Cinsault and Mourvedre that was fermented with 100% whole clusters and aged all in old foudres. It sports a fully mature, amber color (Thierry said it was the "color of the old foudre") to go with classic game, blackberries, figs, spice and dried garrigue. Layered, full-bodied, ripe and evolved, it's a beautiful, fully mature Chateauneuf du Pape to drink over the coming couple of years. As almost all high-quality Chateauneufs can, it will evolve for longer, but there's no upside here.

Very ripe, with prune and plum. Full-bodied and soft, this traditional Chateauneuf offers leather, wet earth and roasted chestnuts. Well made and flavorful. Drink now through 2015. 665 cases made. -PM

A dark-colored red, extracted for maximum show, with an exotic floral, cassis and blackberry character, but little charm. Tastes hard and slightly hot, with drying tannins on the finish. Best from 2002 through 2008. 2,915 cases made. -PM